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		<title>Rovers North BBS Forums</title>
		<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/</link>
		<description>This is a Land Rover Parts, Series, Defender,  Discovery, and Range Rover discussion forum powered by vBulletin. To find out about vBulletin, go to http://www.vbulletin.com/ .</description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:04:24 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Rovers North BBS Forums</title>
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		<item>
			<title>Grab bar, interior rear door....</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8286&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 18:47:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, 
After two trips to the hardware store, I'm starting to pull my hair out. 
  
What size screw do I need to attach the grab bar to the inside...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
After two trips to the hardware store, I'm starting to pull my hair out.<br />
 <br />
What size screw do I need to attach the grab bar to the inside of a SIII's rear door?<br />
 <br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA & III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>jrd51ox</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8286</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Marshall body on a 110 frame</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8285&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 17:58:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello All,  
I was directed here for help answering a question. I am picking up a 1980 109 ambulance Marshall body and plan to graft it on a 110...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello All, <br />
I was directed here for help answering a question. I am picking up a 1980 109 ambulance Marshall body and plan to graft it on a 110 chassis. <br />
What am I looking at in terms of problems?<br />
<br />
So far I'm:<br />
I'm using a series III windscreen. <br />
Changing the door catches to fit my doors (defender style)<br />
Rear cross member extensions (is this just a quick weld or...?)<br />
Wheel well trimming?<br />
<br />
I do need help on the fuel filler, I want to continue to use my rear 110 tank as well. Is there any obstruction to the body on the RH side in the rear quarter? What filler to use... any suggestions?<br />
<br />
What else?<br />
<br />
Also if anyone has some photos of an ambulance body off the frame or any other helpful photos I would be eternally grateful. <br />
<br />
cheers!<br />
ssfrancis (at) gmail (dot) com</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA & III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>d90user</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8285</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Understanding the In's & Out's of Paint System Selection]]></title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8284&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 17:20:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Anyone have a good site(s) that will cover all the broad basics on automotive paint SELECTION? Or feel like giving the forum a tutorial?? 
  
I've...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Anyone have a good site(s) that will cover all the broad basics on automotive paint SELECTION? Or feel like giving the forum a tutorial??<br />
 <br />
I've found some pretty good ones discussing painting technique and prep, but none that clearly layout actual selection of a painting system and the best brands for each choice. Sites like Dupont, PPG, and House of Kolor, assume you already know what you're doing and are just need to know color or chemical specs. And it's not even clear if these are always chemically cured paints, or still offer more old fashion alternatives. <br />
 <br />
Originally I was going to go with the isocyanates for a durable fade-free finish, but the more I read about the paint vapor particle 'hang time' even long after painting (UK Health Services have some great videos on this) and skin absorption risks, the more scared I got (e.g., hardener setting up in my lungs). Even with a self-contained breathing system, I think it's just not safe for my hobby-level of tools/skill. <br />
 <br />
I'll be using a HVLP set-up, with a good CFM compressor; painting 'booth' is a basement room with limited ventilation. Breathing is a self-contained fresh air unit half-mask, and 'curing' will be around 65 degrees using a small oil-filled portable radiator. <br />
 <br />
So....I'm probably going semi-old school, something along the lines of the 1970's era of painting. I believe that's post-laquer stuff and were known as urethanes? Downsides? Not the best choice??<br />
 <br />
Thanks all, as always.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA & III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>JackIIA</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8284</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Fuel pump replacement</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8283&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:35:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Sorry if this has been covered before, but. 
 Does one need to remove the right side wing to change the fuel pump out ?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Sorry if this has been covered before, but.<br />
 Does one need to remove the right side wing to change the fuel pump out ?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA & III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>McQ01</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8283</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Hardtop Windows How To</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8282&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:22:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am starting some winter projects and want to replace the window seals, sliders.  Currently the windows do not slide and the sliders are all rusted...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am starting some winter projects and want to replace the window seals, sliders.  Currently the windows do not slide and the sliders are all rusted out. Does our host have these?  Also, does anyone have any insight on how to do this?<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
Brett</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA & III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>usadventureracing</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8282</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Series II with 2006 Vortec Engine & Tranny in It]]></title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8280&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:05:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Check this thing out:  
 ...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Check this thing out: <br />
 <br />
<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1962-Land-Rover-Series-II-4-8-Vortec-Auto-AC_W0QQitemZ170408768150QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item27ad277296" target="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1962-...item27ad277296</a><br />
 <br />
Some one ask the seller if she/he will give us the computer codes so that we can install a vortec engine in ours in the future.<br />
 <br />
<b><font face="Arial"><div style="margin:20px; margin-top:5px; ">
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				<b><font face="Arial">This 1962 109 Land Rover was built up with many expensive modern conveniences but at the same time was intended to look very stock and original. It has an original 18,000 miles on the body. It is very straight and has no rust. It also has 26,000 miles on the 4.8 Vortec V8 from a 2006 Chevy Tahoe. These engines are very economical dispite being 285 HP. They are computer controlled. It also has the right AL60E Automatic gearbox attached to the engine which is 4 speed plus overdrive and so at speed is very low revving. The transfer case is the Orion HD From Advance Adaptors. The width of the Transfer case allows gearbox sump clearance for the front drive shaft. The rear axle has two HD 24 spline axles about 1.5 inches thick in a Tru-Track limited slip differential. The front axle is stock gearing with free-wheeling hubs. The wheels are new Land Rover 16 inch Wolf British Military wheels with new tires on all four positions and 3 spares, one of which is on the hood. The vehicle also has power steering from a 1998 Range Rover P38 which makes the steering finger light and maneuvering is effortless. It has the original steering wheel and a very original looking dash dispite a few extra engine guages and an automatic Lokar shifter on the custom transmission tunnel. It also has a Jaguar V12 Air Conditioning and heating system under the right fender which is very effective. The engine runs very cool. The computer has retained the safe-mode overheat shutdown to protect itself when many of the other functions were removed so that it would run this engine in this body. Cosmetically the whole Land Rover was painted inside and out in classic Land Rover Bronze Green. The doors and hood were all off it at the time of painting and all the windows were removed. After painting, the windows were replaced with all new sliding rails and all the door openings were fitted with new seals all around. The glass is in excellent condition all around also. The interior of all the five doors have deluxe upholstery on them with storage pockets on the two front doors. The seats, three in the front and a bench of three in the back are also all reupholstered to match. The headliner was so good that it stayed where it was and is original. This has the Safari double skinned roof with the four air vents in it There is also a full length galvanized roof rack with a rear ladder up the side of the door for roof access once it is fitted. The fuse-box is in the middle seat-box and the battery is under the drivers seat. Overall a very original looking classic Land Rover that is now 47 years old. It looks it's age, but is a wolf in sheep's clothing because with the new drive-train, it will cruise with modern traffic, tow a 20 ft boat, run uphill at 80 MPH in the fast lane overtaking traffic and most amazingly of all, do 22 MPG. It is an excellent vehicle. It is in Northern California where it is registered and 100% road legal. The Price is sensibly around $45,000. This is less that it costs to build one of these. The good basic 109 is $15,000 before you start. A good 1993 NAS 110 is $50,000 and there are 500 of them. There is only one if these. It is unique. Call me with questions on 530 306 4648 or e-mail on <a href="mailto:mark@skywagons.com">mark@skywagons.com</a> for more pictures or more details.</font></b>
			
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			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA & III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>amcordo</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8280</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1979 Santana Series 3 For Sale</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8278&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:57:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Wanting to sell a 1979 series 3 santana this is a Spanish made rover</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Wanting to sell a 1979 series 3 santana this is a Spanish made rover</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=69">Series I, II, IIA, III</category>
			<dc:creator>1979santana</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8278</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>The outlaw is back...........</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8276&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 13:07:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey Guys, :D I have been off the forum for a couple of months, doing mod's to the outlaw, building it for trailing, now i am getting a really good...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey Guys, :D I have been off the forum for a couple of months, doing mod's to the outlaw, building it for trailing, now i am getting a really good deal on a 110 station wagon:thumb-up:, thinking of selling the outlaw for Around 12k USD...... i need the covered space....<br />
 <br />
see attached pics.....</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=18"><![CDATA[Defender 90, 110 & 130]]></category>
			<dc:creator>outlaw</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8276</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Rover spotting</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8275&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:19:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I spotted a rover in a bookstore today. 
 
Image: http://www.americanmap.com/catalog/images/documents/9780841609860_c.jpg</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I spotted a rover in a bookstore today.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.americanmap.com/catalog/images/documents/9780841609860_c.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=54"><![CDATA[Travels, Camping Stories & Land Rover Sightings]]></category>
			<dc:creator>LRMAN</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8275</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1994 Defender 90 IMMACULATE!</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8274&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:54:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[1994 Land Rover Defender 90 convertible, full soft top with zip out windows & bimini top, Red with grey waterproof seat upholstery, 23,149 miles, 5...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font size="3"><font color="black"><font face="Arial">1994 Land Rover Defender 90 convertible, full soft top with zip out windows &amp; bimini top, Red with grey waterproof seat upholstery, 23,149 miles, 5 speed manual transmission, full time 4 wheel drive with high-low transfer case, Freestyle alloy wheels, front brush guard, side steps, rear lamp guards, Pioneer removable face, XM ready, am/fm/single CD, BF Goodrich Radial Mud Terrain tires, spare tire with cover, original owner&#8217;s manuals.  One owner, never been off-road, garage kept.  This truck is in excellent condition and tons of fun!  Brimming with 182 horsepower, the Defender comes with a front passenger safari cage, a chasis made of pure 14-gauge steel, and Land Rover&#8217;s prodigious permenant four-wheel-drive system. <i>Awesome</i> is an understatement.  Vin# </font></font><font face="Arial">SALDV2281RA939398</font></font> $29,000</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=68">Defender</category>
			<dc:creator>lori</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8274</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1976 Restored MoD Carawagon</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8273&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:03:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Sadly I must part with the 'Brigadier'. We simply have too many vehicles for two of us and only so much garage & parking space. 
Check out all my...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Sadly I must part with the 'Brigadier'. We simply have too many vehicles for two of us and only so much garage &amp; parking space.<br />
Check out all my specs and photos at the Brigadier's website...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://web.me.com/catalinafox7/1976_Land_Rover_Carawagon/Ad_%26_Photos.html#grid" target="_blank">http://web.me.com/catalinafox7/1976_...otos.html#grid</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA & III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>BlueFox7</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8273</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Rear tub deck/floor</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8272&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:34:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi All, 
  
First time back in a LONG time...my series has been parked for 2 years. Anyway, is anyone willing to share their experiences in replacing...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi All,<br />
 <br />
First time back in a LONG time...my series has been parked for 2 years. Anyway, is anyone willing to share their experiences in replacing the tub floor? I'm in the process of drilling out the old spot welds to remove the old deck.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA & III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>fishguy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8272</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>HELP!!vac advance direction when trying to put distributer in 3.9 95 disco</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8271&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:26:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>should the vac advance be pointing all the way back  clock wise when putting spark plug wires in to cap for correct fireing order to point rotor to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>should the vac advance be pointing all the way back  clock wise when putting spark plug wires in to cap for correct fireing order to point rotor to number one in dist cap and at tdc on crank shaft pulley before cranking when you you are standing in front of engine? In other words where should the vac advance point in order to correcttly install wire leads into cap when installing distributer on 1995 land rover 3.9 liter????? should you then point rotor at number one in cap while tdc is on crank is pointing at mark on crank shaft pulley or should you point time mark at some type degree on crank shaft pulley??? thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=19">Discovery I</category>
			<dc:creator>paddyb</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8271</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>11A Passenger grab bar</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8270&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:29:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Has anyone installed some kind of a grab bar for the front passenger in a 11A? I do have seatbelts, but the passenger does feel exposed. And when...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Has anyone installed some kind of a grab bar for the front passenger in a 11A? I do have seatbelts, but the passenger does feel exposed. And when going off road, they really dont have much to hold on to.<br />
<br />
I would like it to look like it belongs in a 11A.<br />
 <br />
Any ideas?<br />
 <br />
Ivar</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA & III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>ivarra</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8270</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>tie rod connection</title>
			<link>http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8269&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:22:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>After rebuilding my swivel balls I tried to reconnect the tie rod but after threading the nut a few turns the bolt starts to spin along with it. The...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>After rebuilding my swivel balls I tried to reconnect the tie rod but after threading the nut a few turns the bolt starts to spin along with it. The boot is in good shape so I am reluctant to lock it down with vise grips. Is this an indication that the tie rods ends are shot? The manual talks of a special tool but that seems to be used for rebuilding them, this is my first foray into front end componants so I am quite lost. Thanks.<br />
Bob</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17"><![CDATA[Land Rover Series I, II, IIA & III]]></category>
			<dc:creator>bmohan55</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8269</guid>
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